Winter is generally the time of year where we expect colder weather. Though as we all would have noticed over the past year or so, seasons tend to have a habit of mixing into one, so we need to be ready to adapt and react. To be able to adapt and react you really need to understand why your skin is looking or feeling the way it does and what each product in your skincare arsenal can do (good and bad effects affects).
What effects will winter have on our skin? Dry and itchy skin in winter? Why you have dull, dry, itchy or inflamed skin in winter.
During the colder season we find that all skin types become drier. Dehydrated skin can happen to all, even oilier skin types. Dehydration describes the state of your skin at the time whilst the terms oily, dry and combination describe the density of sweat glads (pores) on your skin and so the amount of natural oil it has the ability to produce.
Cold weather outside combined with cranking the heating up inside means that we lose more hydration through our skin. Hydration for skin is not just water, it talks about the balance of natural oils in the skin which perform the integral role of allowing the skin barrier to remain strong and our skin to function the way it should. Hydrated skin, is more stable skin.
What is your skin barrier? And why is skin barrier important?
I love to use the analogy of a brick wall...A new house has smooth wall, shiny, stable mortar in between, an old one looks dull, rough and the mortar is breaking; hydration int he right form is literally the mortar that holds our skin cells together!
So it makes sense that stable skin is much more able to heal, less irritable and inflammable and more perform its function of protection better; this is a strong skin barrier.
By understanding this it is then really clear why colder months tend to herald not just dull and lackluster skin but skin that is much more inflamed and prone to itching, and why things like acne, rosacea and other dermatitis symptoms flare.
Does the darkness affect skin? Do winter foods affect skin?
Beyond the temperature changes the colder seasons also equal less sunlight, likely less outdoor activity and likely a heavier diet that includes more indulgences. All of these can have a negative effect on our skin health. Sunlight and diet will impact nutrient and vitamin levels, primarily Vitamin D, and the balance of healthy fats which all lead to higher inflammation through the body and skin. Similary darkness and less physical and outdoor activity negatively impacts our mood which further increases stress levels, again leading to inflammatory hormones rising in our body. Inflammation leads to faster aging and slower healing which has a very visible effect on our skin.
Winter skincare routine. Changes you should make for winter skin.
All skin is different so I highly recommend talking through your skin needs and products with a specialist to make sure you get the most at all times of year. But in general these are the things that would benefit all skin types.
So what should you be doing to help your skin in winter?
1) Never ignore irritation or inflammation in your skin
Inflammation and irritation is a sign of weakened skin barrier. Healing your skin barrier and keeping it strong should be your first priority then include actives as you are able to.
2) My first tip is to invest in a well balanced moisturiser that is just that and nothing more, with no hidden actives that can dry.
All skin types would benefit from a product that contains ceramides as well as hyaluronic acid/glycerine and some thicker elements such as avocado oil or shea butter.
3) My second tip is to include a product that contains niacinamide.
Oily or dry skin types will get balance of hydration by including this active. And it also helps settle inflammation, allow toleranc of actives and subtly brighten. Win!
4) Step down in strength or frequency of actives or products that can dry or irritate
Opt to reduce acids such as AHAs/BHAs over retinoids. And reduce vit C used over retinol use. This is because retinoids are more ‘multitasking’ for skin need and help heal more aspects of skin health than the others. But here it is so important to understand why you used your products in the first place. For example if you are using salicylic acid as you struggle with angry acne you may want to target treat rather than stop all together.
5) Understand how your diet and lifestyle impacts your skin
We all want to indulge as the cold weather hits. And it is so tempting to just snuggle up inside and hibernate. Try to include natural light, keep active and keep indulgences as treats as this will keep inflammation levels throughout the body down and this helps both signs of aging as well as skin conditions such as acne, rosacea and dermatitis.
6) Consider clinic treatments that intensely hydrate and settle inflammation such as polynucleotides & skin boosters
If you want to quickly settle inflammation or replace hydration these injectable treatments get you quick relief and are great to add onto a focused skin routine
Can I do more for my skin in winter?
Look out for the next installment of this blog, as there was too much to say in one! I will expand on all the points above and tell you how to step down actives and give simple lifestyle tips.
But as always, for a more personalised approach book in your consultation.
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